Looking After Cashmere

What makes cashmere special

Cashmere is a wool gathered from the soft undercoat of certain goats, far finer and lighter than ordinary sheep's wool. That fineness is what gives cashmere its extraordinary softness, its warmth without weight, and its gentle feel against the skin. A good cashmere piece is one of the quiet luxuries of a wardrobe.

Because the fibres are so fine, cashmere is also delicate, and it rewards gentle handling more than almost anything you own. The care it asks for is simple, but skipping it shows quickly in pilling, stretching, and loss of shape.

Wash gently and rarely

Cashmere needs washing far less often than you might expect, since airing between wears refreshes it well. When it does need cleaning, treat it as gently as the fibre deserves.

• Wash in cool water with a detergent meant for cashmere or delicates.
• Handle it softly, without rubbing or wringing, moving it through the water gently.
• Support the whole garment when wet, as sodden cashmere stretches under its weight.

Cashmere is happiest left alone between wears and washed with the lightest hand. Frequent, rough washing is what wears it out before its time.

Airing a cashmere piece overnight after wearing does most of the freshening it needs, sparing the fibres the strain of a wash.

Dry it flat, always

A wet cashmere garment will stretch badly if hung, because the fine fibres cannot bear the weight, so drying flat is not optional. This single habit protects a piece's shape more than any other.

Lay the garment flat on a towel, ease it back to its proper shape while damp, and let it dry away from any direct heat. Never hang wet cashmere, and keep it clear of radiators and strong sun. Reshaped and dried flat, a cashmere piece holds its measurements and its softness, ready to wear as it should be.

Keep pilling in check

Cashmere pills more readily than coarser wools, especially at first and where it rubs, such as under the arms or where a bag sits. This is normal for the fibre and not a sign of poor quality, and it eases as loose fibres work their way out.

Remove pills gently with a proper cashmere comb or shaver rather than pulling them off, which drags the delicate loops. Work in one direction across the surface and take your time. A cashmere piece de-pilled with a little patience looks plush and new again, and after the first few wears the pilling tends to settle down on its own.

Fold, do not hang

Like all fine knitwear, cashmere should be folded rather than hung, so its weight does not drag the shoulders out of shape. A hanger points and stretches a cashmere piece surprisingly fast.

Fold cashmere neatly and store it flat, with room around it so it is not crushed. Keep it clean before any longer storage, since cashmere is especially attractive to moths, which are drawn to marks and body oils. Somewhere dry, dark, and protected is ideal for a resting cashmere piece, and a quick air and reshape brings it back to service beautifully.

Rest it between wearings

Cashmere keeps its shape and softness best when it is allowed to rest, letting the fine fibres recover between wears. Worn day after day without a break, it tires and loses its spring sooner.

Give a cashmere piece a day or two between wearings, and it will bounce back to its natural state, staying plush far longer. This gentle rotation costs nothing and does a great deal, since the fibres regain their loft when they are not under constant strain. A well-rested cashmere piece feels newer for far longer than one worn relentlessly, and the difference shows most at the elbows and cuffs, where a hard-worn piece tires first. If you own more than one cashmere piece, simply alternating them keeps every one plusher for longer.

The reward of care

Cashmere asks for gentleness, but it gives a great deal in return. Cared for properly, a cashmere piece stays soft, warm, and shapely for many years, becoming one of the most reliable pleasures in a wardrobe.

None of the habits is difficult: cool washes, flat drying, gentle de-pilling, careful folding, and a little rest between wearings. Together they keep cashmere at its best, so that the softness you loved on the first wearing is still there long after, and often more so, since good cashmere grows more supple with gentle age. It is a fibre that rewards attention as fully as any you can own, staying luxurious for as long as you treat it kindly.